We’ve moved (again)!

I decided to move my blog again. Though I love WordPress, I thought it was time to create a blog that was easier to personalize, and that would be less friends-and-family and more for the general public. So I’ve moved my blog, given it a new name and a new look, and have been painstakingly reviewing my entries, adding pictures (because when I started blogging that wasn’t even an option yet), and getting ready to present my adventures to the world.

You can find me from now on at galiciamerican.blogspot.com. See you there!

the locutorio

The other day I was at the copy place. My copy place. The place I go to copy and print and scan everything, since we don’t have a printer at home. I was hanging out there for a while since I was printing a ton of wedding stuff, and I started to think about how the place is really kind of a relic. I mean, I know we have Kinko’s in the States, and there were plenty of people buzzing in and out of the shop while I waited, since here it’s common for students to copy entire textbooks instead of buying them. But copy places, they’re a dying breed. More and more people have printer/scanner/fax combos at home and as more people become proficient in programs like Photoshop, they don’t need the assitance of the copy guy to create the documents they desire. And sure, we could go to the store any day of the week and buy ourselves a printer, and find a place to put it, and never have to deal with (god forbid) wanting to print something on a Sunday.

But it was comfortable there, watching the guy laminate a bunch of menus for a new bar down the street, and chatting amiably with him about how it was closed for a long time and now there’s a new owner that’s renovated the place. We talked about how business has been good for copy places this month, but last year was just terrible. We talked about how it’s a job that tires easily and doesn’t leave much time for sitting down. And it was comfortable, standing there waiting, watching people come and go from this tiny shop in this tiny corner of the world.
And it reminded me of another relic, the locutorio, the shop where I used to have to go to make international phone calls, back before cell phones and back before Skype and back before international calling plans that were actually afforable. I mean, it wasn’t really that long ago (I used the locutorio up until about 2009) that when I wanted to call my mom from overseas, I had to go down to the corner shop and tell them where I wanted to call, take a place at one of their little phone booths, and make my call there. If I wanted to use the internet, I had to use the public computers at the ciber. Sometimes I had a calling card I could use at the corner payphone, but I remember so many cold, rainy nights, huddling against the meager walls of the cabina, trying to make out what people were saying over all the static on the line.

And I remember how inconvenient it was, not to just be able to pick up the phone and make a call. But I also remember that little bit of community, when the guy at the counter knew me and exactly where I wanted to call, and when I knew the other people that would be hanging out on the computers or phones at the same time as I was. And as I was sitting in the copy shop thinking about all this, I started to get nostalgic. Not for locutorios, really, or for the age where I had to stand outside in driving rain just to reach my family, but for the little corner shops that will soon become nonexistent, and the sense of community that will disappear with them. For now, the copy places exist, but I know they’re an endangered species. So I do my part by making my copies there, and when I go in, it feels a little bit like home.

Summer, the whole thing

It’s a rainy late summer day here. I’m sitting here with a cup of tea, listening to Balmorhea, and thinking about…well, the whole summer.
What have we been doing with our time since, oh, May? Well, lots of things, but mostly, planning our wedding. I had no idea what a Universal Time Suck planning a wedding was until I started doing it. And let me tell you, it sucks time.
But we’ve done other things, too:

We jumped over bonfires and ate sardines on the night of San Juan. Do you see the mysterious witch?

Then we spent a very rainy weekend in Asturias, my second favorite place on earth, where we had a terrible meal at the world’s worst restaurant (seriously) followed by several extremely delicious meals that almost made up for it. Oh, and we visited the sanctuary of Covadonga, where there was neither sanctuary, nor peace, nor silence, nor any kind of respect for quiet reflection and spiritual contemplation. At least it was pretty.

Then we watched Spain win the Eurocopa, which only happens every four years and is almost as big a deal as winning the World Cup. And since Spain became the first team ever to consecutively win a Eurocopa, a World Cup, and another Eurocopa, it was REALLY BIG DEAL.

 

We pulled up the onions that we’d planted way back in spring with Isaac’s parents.

Then we planned a 4th of July party for some friends, complete with homemade hamburgers (and buns), corn on the cob, onion rings (made with those onions we planted!), and homemade hot fudge sundaes.

 

And then we took a week-long road trip across northern Spain to Bilbao, to see one of our favorite bands, Mumford & Sons, in concert. It was awesome. And the Basque ice cream was to die for (not to mention the incredible pintxos!).

We went kayaking (um, let’s just say the Danish family with two young daughters whipped our butts, but don’t we look just fantastic in our wetsuits?).

We discovered hidden beaches and trespassed on abandoned properties (the abandoned properties of Asturias are another story for another time. The sense of faded glory and the fall of the mighty is overwhelming in the ruins of once-great mansions).

We stayed in Portugalete, north of Bilbao, and home of the famous Hanging Bridge, with its cable car that crosses the ría a million times a day (and was fun to ride).

We crossed the bridge to the town of Getxo on the other side, and wandered its famous boardwalk of historic homes. Then we came back over to our side and wandered around Portugalete, going from bar to bar in search of pintxos.

And of course, we visited the obligatory Guggenheim museum, but mostly to make fun of contemporary art, because really, what’s the point of contemporary art if not to poke fun? Also, the building made us dizzy, but it is truly a feat of modern architecture.

Whew! Then we came home and continued the Wedding Planning Time Suck, which is scheduled to end at approximately 1:30pm on October 6th, and not a moment before. But we are so excited that everyone is coming to visit our little faraway corner of the world, and we can’t wait to see them all and celebrate being together and being in love.
…and then we’re going on vacation!

Festa da Primavera

So, you might wonder where I’ve been for the past few months. Turns out I simultaneously got involved in two of the greatest Time Sucks known to man: Planning an International Wedding and Starting a Business.

About the wedding, I don’t want to give away any details so I will only say that I’ve learned one lesson about wedding planning: It’s hard.

The business part came about really last summer, when Isaac and I were wandering the market one Saturday morning and just happened upon a huge street festival in the hippie neighborhood of San Pedro.

It’s your typical street art festival, with artisans selling leather goods, handmade jewelry, journals, soaps, candles, instruments, and everything else you can imagine. Except, unlike most street art fairs, it turns into a raging party at night. People show up with their accordions and tambourines and there’s a huge foliada in the main plaza. As we were waiting in line for our chouripan (the best sausage in a bun you’ll ever have), I said to Isaac that it would be so cool if, next year, I could participate in a fair like this.

And then, a couple months ago, I just happened upon the neighborhood Facebook page and saw that they were accepting applications for their spring festival. And I was accepted. It was one of those totally random coincidences that makes you sure that there are really no coincidences at all.

So I started planning, thinking of ideas for American pastries that would be palatable to Galicians and yet different enough to be interesting. And then last Monday I started baking, and that led to this:

and this:

I took over the entire kitchen and most of the living room with pans and racks and plates EVERYWHERE. I baked and baked, and then ran to the store for butter and sugar and flour, and then I baked some more. Then we packed it all up (with a lot of hand-wringing and nervousness on my part), and early on Saturday morning we drove five minutes down the road to the other end of town, and we set it all up again, where it all eventually turned into this:

There were chocolate and vanilla cupcakes, blueberry muffins, lemon poppyseed muffins, vegan muffins (it is a hippie neighborhood, after all), ginger cookies, decorated sugar cookies in the shape of flowers, butterflies, hearts for Mother’s Day…

…cookies in the shape of the Galician flag and Galician nationalist flag (big seller!), the cross of Santiago, and shells (another symbol of Santiago), lemon bars, and brownies. Whew!

And ALL of it came out of this:

This is my sad little oven. Apart from being so tiny that I can only bake four large sugar cookies at a time, it doesn’t have any kind of temperature control whatsoever, just two controls ambiguously labeled Big Flame and Small Flame. Needless to say, the poor oven was on for about four days straight in order to bake all of that. It might need counseling to recover.

The day of the festival itself was gray and drizzly, as it has been for about a month. We had an umbrella but couldn’t afford the large tents most of the other stands had.

Then it started to rain.

It was a monsoon, really. It was a fairly short storm but it took only seconds for EVERYTHING to get drenched. Everyone was frantically covering their goods and tents with plastic, taping or clipping tarps to each other as best they could.

We salvaged what we could, but a few brownies and muffins were casualties of the storm. A moment of silence, please. This is our little stand in the aftermath of the storm, like a little shanty bakery:

…And then the sun came out, and so did all the people. There was a one-man band:

…and os maios, which are traditional sculptures made out of natural materials to commemmorate spring:

This one has a garland of blown-out eggshells:

And in true Galician fashion, once there was food, drink, and somebody with an accordion, it became a party. This is what it looked like once it really got going (photo courtesy of our local newspaper, El Correo Gallego):

The festival finally ended around midnight, and we packed up what little remained of our pastries – a few cupcakes damaged in the storm and a couple of blueberry muffins – and headed home. It was a long day, and an even longer week, but the real party is the even bigger San Pedro festival in July. Will we be willing to do this all again in a couple months? You bet.

Cleo update!

It’s been a while since you last saw Cleo. Have you wondered what she’s been up to?

Well, she’s been sleeping…

…and getting into trouble…

…and sleeping…

…and getting into trouble…

Yes, she actually does sleep with her tongue hanging out. It’s the most adorable thing I’ve ever seen.

Yes, that’s my cell phone charger, in about five pieces.

Yes, that’s her innocent “What? What could I possibly be doing wrong? I just can’t imagine!” face. She uses that face a lot, usually while getting caught red-pawed doing something very naughty, like eating par-cooked meatballs off the counter, or sticking her face in the bowl of frosting I was whipping, or leaving mysterious paw prints on the television screen. Boy, it’s a good thing she’s so cute!

 

I believe in signs.

I believe that everything happens for a reason, and I don’t believe in coincidences.

I truly believe that when you are doing what you’re meant to be doing, things will just fall into place. Not that it won’t take time, or it won’t be hard, or that things won’t go wrong – they will, but then things will somehow, impossibly, go right again.

For a while now, I’ve harbored the dream of eventually owning my own coffeeshop and bakery in Spain. I don’t talk about it much on here, mostly because it’s a slow process. I’m not looking to get rich quick (or maybe ever), and I know that things worth doing take time. Owning one’s own bakery is not exactly an action-packed adventure, and the journey is marked not by large milestones, but by tiny crumbs, dropped in your path like Hansel and Gretel, to show you you’re still on the right track.

This week, I got two such crumbs. Two friends who I haven’t talked to in years both contacted me out of the blue, and both just happened to casually ask how my coffeeshop idea was coming along. Maybe it doesn’t seem like much, but I was completely surprised that they even remembered it at all. There isn’t anything very special about a desire to own a bakery – I mean, it’s not as if I’d told them my goal in life was to be President or be the next Warren Buffett or marry Brad Pitt or anything. But I guess something in the way I told them struck them and they’ve both remembered ever since. It makes me think that maybe this isn’t such a crazy idea, and it might just be possible. Maybe it’s not a pipe dream, and maybe I’m not alone – maybe people are rooting for me, and maybe destiny is, too.

It’s happened…

After two years of dating, one long-distance over thousands of miles and one together in our tiny Santiago apartment…

After six years of knowing each other…

After meeting the families, and Sunday afternoons on Isaac’s family farm, and trips to my home in Chicago…

After countless car rides on the endless winding roads of Galicia, with Arcade Fire and MGMT blasting on the radio (okay, and sometimes Pitbull, too)…

After thousands of meals of “try this, you’ll like it!” and introducing each other to hamburgers, cinnamon toast, cupcakes, cocido, and pollo con fideos…

After adopting our kitten Cleo and making a little family of 3…

After hikes in the mountains and afternoons on beaches and nights out on the town…

After long late-night discussions about hopes, dreams, the perfect little country cottage, a bakery, and a house full of animals…

And after a million “I love yous”…

…we’re engaged!

Merry Christmas! Wait…what? It’s February?

Oh boy. February 2nd. Probably should get around to talking about Christmas, right?

I started this entry several times, and then scrapped them, each time, because the entry seemed too nostalgic, or too bitter, or too controversial, or just too plain boring. Isaac and I went to the States for Christmas. It’s one of my favorite times of year but it’s also a hard time. Hard to be away from family, sometimes hard to be with them. Anyway, things happened over Christmas that one day I will tell you all, but for now I decided it’s best not to. Let’s just say it involved a run-in with immigration police. Suddenly the Discovery Channel show “Border Security” hits a little too close to home (not to mention “Locked Up Abroad”).

Anyway, this blog sometimes is like a straw in a thick milkshake. You know, where things are going along smoothly and suddenly everything gets blocked up by my need to write things in chronological order, and even though I have tons of ideas and things I want to talk about, I couldn’t talk about them until I talked about Christmas. And I couldn’t talk about Christmas, and then before you know it it’s February and the last thing I talked about was Thanksgiving. There you have it, folks.

So let’s not talk about Christmas. Let’s talk about how Isaac and I are famous! Yes. I probably didn’t tell you this story when it happened because it was just so ridiculous. Just a week or two after I moved here, we were taking a lovely stroll around town, when we passed this group of college students (actually, they looked more like hippies, but you know what I mean), who were filming something. They stopped us and asked us to help them out with their video. We asked them what we’d have to do, and they said something along the lines of “Oh, you just have to climb in our dark scary van with strangers while we film it…”<shifty looks> So of course we said yes. Now, I preface this by saying that even though everybody’s mother (including mine) taught them not to get into cars with strangers (who by the way, weren’t even offering candy), it just didn’t seem like a bad idea. I mean, they were hippies.

To make a long story short, we got in their van, and they filmed it, and then (mercifully) they let us out again and told us to look up the video in a few weeks’ time. That was about a year ago. We’ve thought about it every once in a while since then, usually fondly recalling “that time we got in that random van with total strangers just because they asked us to”, but we never actually got around to looking up the video. Until about a week ago. I don’t remember what jogged our memories, but sure enough, there it was on YouTube, an ad for sailing in Galicia, with a whopping 410 views.

For your viewing pleasure, Isaac’s and my 0:02 minutes of fame (look for us between 0:42 and 0:50). Don’t blink or you’ll miss it!

 

 

A Galician Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving wasn’t always my favorite holiday. I never liked any of the traditional foods served on Thanksgiving, like stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy, green bean casserole and sweet potatoes. What does that leave – turkey? And our Thanksgivings always involved an arduous eight-hour journey across the entire state of Illinois (where there was inevitably traffic), the entire state of Iowa (where there was inevitably a snowstorm), until we crossed into Nebraska late at night, exhausted and stiff. Then there was the huge family. I was a shy kid and since we spent Thanksgiving at a place called Boys’ Town, there were always tons of people, some of which were new faces every year. It made for a very lively meal, but it didn’t always feel like the intimate family affair that makes Thanksgiving so special.

Anyways, I’ve come to appreciate it much more in the years since I’ve had to spend Thanksgiving abroad. No matter where you go, you can usually find someone who celebrates Christmas, or the New Year on January 1, and even Halloween is gaining popularity in places where Halloween was never celebrated before. But Thanksgiving is a uniquely American holiday, and though most Spaniards know it from movies, no one really understands all that Thanksgiving entails.

It’s one of the hardest holidays for expats to spend abroad, especially given that most of the fixings – like cranberries, pecans, sugar pumpkins, thin green beans, even turkey – are almost impossible to find here. But that doesn’t stop most Americans from celebrating anyway, and it definitely wasn’t going to stop me.

When I hosted my very first Thanksgiving dinner abroad in 2005, I didn’t make a whole turkey, but managed to put together a pretty decent meal on short notice. This year, I planned ahead. I wanted to make a traditional Thanksgiving dinner for Isaac’s family. I ordered a fresh turkey from the market, stockpiled butternut squashes, sweet potatoes, and apples, and had finally come to terms with the fact that there would be no cranberries when my new friend Amy showed up from a recent trip to the States with a bag of Ocean Spray fresh cranberries, and I almost cried with joy. I may have proposed to her. And her husband. And then I made fresh cranberry pie.

On Thursday morning I got up early to head to the market and pick up my 15-pound turkey, freshly defeathered. I went to the spice stand to get juniper berries and peppercorns, and picked up bushels of apples from my customary fruit stand. The rest came from Isaac’s parents’ garden.

On Friday, I spent the afternoon baking pies. Since I couldn’t decide which flavor to make, I just made them all – pumpkin pie (actually butternut squash and sweet potato pie), apple pie, cranberry tart, and even a chocolate-chestnut cake, since I wanted to use up the rest of the chestnuts Isaac’s sister had brought us from Pablo’s father’s house.

On Saturday morning, we packed everything (and I mean everything) into the car and made the 1.5-hour drive to Isaac’s parents’ farm. Though the original house is old, they’ve recently remodeled the kitchen and had a brand new oven (with temperatures!) waiting to be used, and -more importantly on this occasion- a dishwasher.

All morning I cut, roasted, boiled, peeled, mixed, pureed, sliced, sauteed, and cooked away, until we sat down a few hours later to a beautifully roasted turkey, au gratin potatoes (I hate mashed potatoes and besides, Galicians make potato puree so it isn’t a very novel food), pureéd butternut squash (since Isaac wouldn’t let me make a casserole with marshmallows), wild rice with mushrooms, bacon, and turnip greens, a salad with dried cranberries, walnuts, and apples, cranberry sauce with orange, gravy, and applesauce.

As is Thanksgiving tradition, we stuffed ourselves silly. The turkey was incredibly juicy and tender, and, though dubious at first, the Spaniards loved the combination of cranberry sauce on turkey. The tiny jar of jam I’d used to make the sauce was quickly gone and I regretted not having another on hand for leftovers. Americans definitely have their odd traditions, but there are some things we do right!

When we thought we couldn’t eat any more, we took a short break as we chatted and finished off the rest of the wine. And then we made coffee and I brought out the pies.

I swear I could not have asked for these pies to turn out better than they did. I practically shed tears of joy when I tasted the pumpkin pie, which, actually being a butternut squash/sweet potato pie, I wasn’t sure would truly taste like pumpkin. I promise you, it was like tasting America itself, or childhood, or whatever it is that pumpkin pie makes you think of. It was familiar, and comforting, and most importantly – absolutely delicious.

Surprisingly, the cranberry pie was the most popular. Xandre said it tasted like marzipan, which, though I’m not particularly a fan of marzipan, I assumed was a good thing. I made sure to have at least one slice of each, and even when my pants warned me that one more piece would surely be overload, I gazed longingly at the pumpkin pie that tasted like Christmas morning. Then I wrapped it up and took it home and ate the rest sitting on the couch. Delicious.

Later, I sat in the warmth of the kitchen with the oven still cooling down, feeling happy and sleepy with a full stomach and quite a bit of cava, and generally very pleased with myself. Sure, it wasn’t the most traditional Thanksgiving, and I was thousands of miles away from my family, but I had another family who were willing to be part of this odd American celebration, and let me use their brand-new stove, and (against their better judgment) try the crazy combination of cranberry and turkey, and put up with me talking about how the next step was buying our live Christmas tree and putting up lights and singing Christmas carols. For that, I am thankful.

 

*      *      *

Note: In case you’re curious, which you’re probably not, here’s what we did with the leftovers: the first day we made delicious sandwiches with turkey, lettuce, swiss cheese, raspberry jam, and Dijon mustard. Then we made Thanksgiving salads with leftover leaf lettuce, shredded turkey, dried cranberries, chopped walnuts, and shredded carrot, but you could add whatever else you’ve got waiting to be used up in the fridge. The third day we made a turkey risotto, and the fourth day I made a turkey stock/soup with the rest of the carcass and meat (and even Cleo got some leftovers), but if I was smarter I would have done it the other way around and used the stock to flavor the risotto instead of chicken broth. Oh well, next time. That is, if they ever let me cook a turkey again!

Why I love IKEA

IKEA is my friend. IKEA and I have been together for several years now. IKEA helped me redecorate my room at my mom’s house. IKEA helped me redecorate my apartment with Isaac. IKEA is cheap, and everywhere. I think we cried tears of joy the day the catalog showed up here on our doorstep advertising the grand opening of a new store a mere hour away. I think IKEA does a great job of creating basic furniture that’s insanely easy to personalize to your desires. No, it’s probably not the furniture I’d have in the house of my dreams. No, it’s not antique, and no, it might not last forever, but it’s the only place I can find a decently priced white countertop measuring exactly 60x120cm with two skinny adjustable legs that will fit in the tiny space between our tiny stove and tiny fridge, where before there was a gaping hole. But the reasons I love IKEA go way beyond furniture:

I think IKEA really knows how to do the big-box store thing. They know it’s going to be a giant pain in the butt no matter what, and I think they try to make it as easy as possible. They put all the information for you right at the front, with little pencils and catalogs and bags and tape measures, because they know you’re an idiot who left all that important stuff at home sitting on the kitchen counter.

And they feed you. Obviously, this is very important to me. I hate shopping in general and, like a parking meter, have about a two-hour time limit before I run out. I need to be recharged with cookies and coffee, or in this case, ice cream and hot dogs. I don’t think Isaac and I have made it through a single IKEA trip without a snack. The last time we went, we had planned on eating dinner somewhere in the large mall where the store was located, until we realized that we hadn’t brought any money, just credit cards (all the cash was probably on the kitchen counter with the pencils and the tape measure). We roamed around for a while until we realized that IKEA was the only place where two of us could eat something with the collective 4€ we had in our pockets. Seriously, for 4€, we each had a hot dog, beverage, and ice cream, which leads me to the other thing I love about IKEA:

The crunchy onions on the hot dogs. Seriously. I tried them for the first timeat a hot dog stand in Berlin and it’s been my favorite hot dog topping ever since. It must be a Scandinavian thing, because unfortunately, I never see it anywhere else. Luckily, I imagine they’re pretty simple to make – just like onion rings, but with the onion finely diced instead.

But I’m not writing this as a promotion for IKEA or anything. Actually, it’s so I can complain about my least favorite store – Hipercor. The last time we went to this place we had such a bad time that we actually coined a new term for the effect of shopping there – hipercrisis.

Hipercor is a regular department store like any other, part of the great Spanish department store chain El Corte Inglés, but while IKEA and Hipercor are similar in size, the shopping experiences are polar opposites.

When you walk into Hipercor, you are immediately bombarded by two things: insanely loud music and very high heat. Any and every appliance that makes noise is turned on and every single one is tuned to a different channel. Plus there’s the overhead system of music, which I believe changes every two aisles, so there’s this general cacophony in the background that you might not actually even notice until you wonder what’s caused your raging headache. It’s called noise pollution.

And the temperature is always set very high, so you start to feel weighed down and listless and uncomfortable the longer you spend in the store. This is especially true in winter when you enter with a coat or heavy sweater on.

And while Hipercor sells a variety of electronics and appliances, there is NOBODY in the store who knows anything about them. Don’t bother asking. They have no idea. Actually, good luck even finding somebody to ask in the first place. There is nothing more frustrating to me than a store full of products its salespeople know nothing about. This makes looking for any kind of specialty item practically impossible, especially because stores in Spain are not nearly as forgiving as American ones when it comes to returns and exchanges when you realize you’ve bought the wrong thing. (IKEA, on the other hand, will give you 120 days to return most products! 120 days! Which is as long as it’ll take you to figure out the instructions, but I like knowing I don’t have to rush back next week because the curtain rod I bought was 120 cm instead of 110.)

But the worst thing about Hipercor is the fact that they sell the exact same product at two different prices. They basically have the Corte Inglés floor (which is like shopping at Marshall Field’s), and then right above it, the Hipercor floor (which is like shopping at Target). And they sell the exact same products at drastically different prices. The hand mixer I bought cost 88€ on Floor 1, and 65€ on Floor 2. The exact same mixer. Our water purifying pitcher cost 36€ on Floor 1, an 25€ on Floor 2. Shouldn’t this somehow be illegal?

So why even shop there, you ask? Well, because I’m American, and because Hipercor is so big, it has the largest variety, and unfortunately it’s the only place in Santiago that I can get yellow cheddar cheese!, and bagels!, and cranberries!, oh my! It’s a hassle, but it’s worth it for really delicious macaroni and cheese. I have priorities, people.

Anyway, the point is, there are too many stores (unfortunately, Hipercor is not alone in their crimes) that make shopping a complete nightmare and could learn a few things from IKEA. Thank you IKEA, oh and by the way, we just love our new curtains!